10 Ways to Explore Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in Michigan

Designated a National Park in 1970, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore in Michigan is the largest freshwater dune system in the world and  spans over 71,000 acres across six regions of historic properties and 366 historic buildings and landscapes: Good Harbor, Port Oneida, Glen Haven, Platte River, South Manitou Island, and North Manitou Island. The area is located about 30 minutes west of Traverse City and is fairly accessible from Chicago, Milwaukee, and Detroit.

Each year, over 1.5 million visitors explore 35 miles of dunes (the tallest dune is 450 feet tall!) and forest, and 65 miles of shoreline and beaches. Visitors can travel through several towns and villages, each with their own unique history and identity, as well as shopping, dining, lodging, and outdoor adventure options. The activities we included in this park guide are family friendly and we recommend at least two full days to explore major highlights of the Lakeshore. Note: While the lakeshore is technically open year round, some museums and hiking options are not open during late fall through early spring seasons. Winter offers its own adventures inside the Lakeshore (check here) but this guide focuses on a summer visit. 

Important Resources for Planning a Trip through Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore:

• NPS brochure and map
• Trailhead map
• Junior Ranger booklet
• Online interactive map of the Lakeshore
• Booklet for the farms and cabins within the park
• Calendar of seasonal events and programs

Towns to Explore within the Lakeshore Area:

• Suttons Bay: Lots of shopping and dining options along St Joseph Street
• Glen Arbor:  Definitely stop at Cherry Republic!
• Frankfort: Tour Point Betsie Lighthouse
• Empire: The hub of Sleeping Bear Dunes, but plenty of other spots to explore, too
• Lake Leelanau: Get out on the lake with so many sports and activities

10 Ways to Explore Sleeping Bear Dunes:

1. Start with a stop at the Hart Visitor Center in Empire: The Visitor Center is open seven days a week year, with facilities including restrooms, a gift shop, museum exhibits, and tons of helpful information and print materials from friendly park rangers. Watch the 25 minute film Water, Sand, and Sky in the auditorium to get an overview of the history of the park. There are also shorter videos about many specific topics related to the lakeshore. Museum exhibits include hunting and fishing, dune formations, variation of trees and rocks in the lakeshore, ways to project the beaches, and the history of Native American tribes. Consider purchasing a seven day pass that includes access to ALL sites in the Lakeshore and don’t forget to get your National Park Passport stamps. Plan on 45-60 minutes to fully explore the Visitor Center. Note: There is also a small Visitor Center on South Manitou Island, open seasonally.
2. Take a drive: The seven mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive has several pull outs to stop and take in the scenery: a covered bridge, beech maple forest, pine plantation and a plateau that is 450 feet above the lake.  Bicycles are allowed on the paved road. Download the free self guided tour for the drive here. Note: The road is closed during winter months.

3. Climb to the top of a dune on the Dune Climb: Located about five miles north of the town of Empire on route M-109, the climb is a hike up 140 feet in loose sand. There is a large parking lot, lots of picnic tables around the parking area, a Visitor Center (make sure to get your National Park Passport stamps) with concessions and a small gift shop, and a separate building with restroom facilities. The climb takes about 20 minutes (it’s a straight hike up in the sand) and offers great views from the top (although NOT of Lake Michigan). There is an extension trail that will take hikers to Lake Michigan and it takes about 3-4 hours round trip (not recommended for young children). See the full map here.
4. Take a hike: Sleeping Bear Dunes has miles of trails throughout the lakeshore. We enjoyed the Empire Bluff Trail  and the Pyramid Point Trail. The Empire Bluff Trail is 1.5 miles round trip and takes less than an hour to complete. The trail winds through a forest of beech and maple trees and has a few sets of wooden stairs built into the trail and ends with an observation deck 400 feet above Lake Michigan overlooking much of the lakeshore. There is a parking lot and vault toilet and picnic area near the entrance.  The Pyramid Point Trail is a 2.7 mile trail, with a lookout point about a half mile from the trailhead with amazing views of the Manitou Island and Lake Michigan. The trail has several wooden planks that help with navigating uphill through the forest. The view from the look out point is stunning, but steep! Be careful holding on to little ones; we do NOT recommend hiking down to the water- it can take up to 2 hours to hike back up in direct sun in deep sand. Other popular trails that are kid friendly include Good Harbor, Old Indian, and Windy Moraine trails. A good index of trails and information about each one can be found here. 

5. Bike along the Heritage Trail: The 27 mile, paved trail (accessible for bikers, walkers, and is wheelchair friendly for most of the path) starts just south of Empire all the way to the Good Harbor Trailhead, and includes spots to stop for several hiking trails and town village areas- see the full map and list of trailheads here. Several trailheads have restroom facilities, picnic areas, and parking lots. 
6. Get out on (or in!) the water: Sleeping Bear Dune has 35 miles of shoreline and several sugar sand beaches open to the public. Family friendly beaches include Esch Road Beach, Glen Haven Beach, and Good Harbor Bay Beach– see good indexes here and here. Rent a kayak or canoe in downtown Empire and public boat launch on Little Glen Lake and in Empire.Tubing, canoeing, or rafting on the Platte River is also a great option, with options through the Loon and Walk and Weir to Lake Michigan route. More information here. 

7. Visit the Glen Haven Historic Village: Developed by David Henny Day who came to the area in 1878 to manage a rail station for the Northern Transit Company, D.H. Day helped develop a thriving cord wood station and lumber company, canning business for the 5,000+ apple and cherry trees, and working farm with hundreds of hogs throughout the first part of the 20th century.  Later, D.H. Day donated 32 acres of land along Lake Michigan to the state, and it ultimately became part of the Lakeshore. There are several places to explore, all within walking distance: The General Store has a gift shop and museum exhibits in the back that showcase the history of the village; don’t forget your National Park Passport stamps. Go next door to the Boat House, which had three purposes over the years: first as a cannery until the 1940s, a parking garage for the dune mobile rides, and finally a boat museum opening in the 1980s. Activities for children include modeling the steps for canning cherries and using tools to insert screws into a peg wall. There is a display of small boats used by the US Life Saving Service and US Coast Guard, including Searcher (an open surf boat), TRS Motorized unsinkable surfboat, two canoes, a flat bottom skiff, and a 1950s 527 Mary E. Look out to see the North Manitou Shore Lighthouse, about 1.5 miles from the island on the right and South Manitou Shore Lighthouse on the left. The Blacksmith Shop is on the other side of the General Store, rebuilt in 1871 after a fire and closed when the mills closed in the 1920s. It was used as storage for many years and later housing for migrant workers in the village. Today, the restored building offers demonstrations and visitors can even receive a free initial block handmade on site as a souvenir. The Maritime Museum, housed in a former US Life-Saving Service Station, is about a half mile down the road. Exhibits feature the history of the Coast Guard and Life-Saving Services, as well as life saving equipment used during the first half of the 20th century, and a Steamer Wheelhouse on the second floor (don’t miss the views of the Manitou Passage from the second floor!).  Note: Restrooms are located in a separate building and there is limited parking near the village. 

8. Check out the Port Oneida Heritage Center at the Olsen Farm: Start at the Heritage Center inside the Olsen farmhouse, which was built in the early 20th century by Charles and Hattie Olsen. Tours are self guided through the first floor, which includes a set up dining room and kitchen. Check out the indoor plumbing, dating back to 1929, and the pantry of commonly used items. There is also a kiosk of stories from local community members. Walk outside to Hattie’s Flower Garden (her original poppies and day lilies still grow there) and explore the Barn and see old farming equipment (seasonal programs and demonstrations also happen in the barn).  There is a small gift display near the admission desk (don’t forget your National Park Passport stamps) and public restrooms. Note: Free to visit; plenty of parking next to the home; only open Monday through Saturday from late May through September)
9. Explore another museum: Within the perimeters of the National Lakeshore, there are several centers and museums that highlight the European settlers who first came to the area as well as the building structures, art work, and impact on industries such as boating and fishing, dating back centuries. See the full list of museums here. Note: Many of them have seasonal hours and are closed during the winter. 
10. Take a boat ride out to North and South Manitou Islands: The Island ferry runs from June through September, with more frequent routes during peak summertime. Visitors to South Manitou Island can climb to the top of the lighthouse and enjoy the public beach. Limited facilities are available. Visitors can also explore North Manitou Island with hiking trails and beach access and even spend the night camping on the island. Visitors who just want a view of the island can take a 1.5 hour guided cruise. 

Looking for other adventures around Michigan? See our index of posts here.