Resort Guide: Greenbrier Resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia

The Greenbrier Resort, a designated National Historic Landmark, has been on our bucket list for years and we were lucky enough to enjoy an overnight at “America’s Resort” this summer. This week on the blog, we’re sharing a full guide to The Greenbrier including the wide variety of amenities and dining options, the resort’s rich history, and all the family friendly activities we enjoyed. We promise you’ll want to book a stay at The Greenbrier, too!

Located in the beautiful Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, the Greenbrier Resort welcomes generations of families every year. A total of 28 US presidents have stayed at the Greenbrier, dating back to Martin Van Burren. The word “greenbrier” refers to the prickly, woody vine that is known to grow all over the area with rounded stems and thorny sides. Many businesses throughout Greenbrier County honor the prevalent vine with its namesake. 

The 11,000 acre resort includes close to 800 lodging options (700 guest rooms and suites, 60 cottages, and several full guest homes), 20 dining options (everything from fine dining restaurants to quick services snacks and drinks) and shopping (over 30 apparel, jewelry, housewares, and gift shops) options, a 40,000 square foot spa and medical spa, four golf courses, a presidential museum, a declassified bunker built to protect the US government in war, and over 50 daily activities and programs. It’s easy to see why generations of families make annual visits to the Greenbrier, fun in all seasons. 

A brief history of The Greenbrier: The area now designated as the Greenbrier Resort was once the 18th century hunting ground and camp of the Shawnee Indians. It became a popular spot because of the therapeutic sulfur springs that were known to “cure” people of various ailments. During the early 1800s Mr. Henderson, an affluent sugar farmer from Louisiana, built his house high on the hill for a better view of the property. That home would later welcome five presidents (Van Buren, Buchanan, Pierce, Tyler, and Fillmore) and eventually be turned into a museum in 1932. A formal resort opened in the late 1850s, was used as a military hospital during the Civil War, and reopened in 1865. Since its opening, 28 presidents have stayed at the Greenbrier resort while in office (from Monroe to Trump).

In 1869 the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad Company brought midwesterners to the resort area and several people and businesses owned the resort property until 1910 when the C&O Railway Company bought the resort property and the seven thousand acres surrounding it, expanding it to a year round resort with amenities such as the indoor pool in 1912 and first golf course in 1914. The C&O Railway owned the property until 1942 when the US government purchased it, closed the resort to the public, and created the Ashford Military Hospital, caring for over 24,000 wounded soldiers. The C&O Railway bought the property back in 1946 and hired famed designer Dorothy Draper, known for her bold prints and stripes, use of big flowers in decor, and black and white checkered floors, to completely redesign the resort. Eighteen months and 12 million dollars later, the resort reopened in 1948. Draper’s apprentice, Carlton Varney, helped with the design and took over Draper’s design company when she died in 1969. 

There were several renovations and additions to the resort, with multiple residential wings added in the 1950s and 1970s, as well as the building of the top secret Emergency Relocation Center, an underground bunker created to hide and protect US government officials during times of conflict, in the late 1950s. The bunker could house up to 1,200 people for months with a full dining hall, sleeping quarters, replica Senate and House Chambers, and fully functional medical facilities. The bunker was declassified and made public in 1992 and public tours began in 1995. Local resident Jim Justice, a third term governor of West Virginia and current US Senator, bought the resort in 2009 and had staff build additional facilities and amenities. Today, the resort is run by Justice’s children and employs over 1400 staff members. 

Lodging Options: The Greenbrier has over 800 lodging options (700 guest rooms, 60 cottages, and several full guest homes) for every family size and occasion for visiting. We loved our Superior Room with two queen beds and additional sitting area and walk in closet- plenty of space to spread out.  There are also one and two bedroom suites in the wings of the main resort and multi family options in adjacent row cottages (up to four bedrooms) throughout the resort property. All lodging reservations have a daily resort fee that includes many amenities (including all 10 activities on our list below). 

Dining Options: The Greenbrier offers a wide variety of dining options on property- see the full list here and be sure to read about the dress code policy here. Options that are kid friendly include:

• The Main Dining Room: Formal dining for breakfast (buffet and a la carte options) and dinner with a children’s menu; located on First Level; reservations required for dinner; menu here.
• The Forum: Casual Italian dining for lunch and dinner with a children’s menu; take out pizza menu option; located on Lower Lobby Level; reservations required; menu here.
• The Greenbrier Gourmet and Coffee Bar: Offering freshly made pastries, sandwiches, and snacks, and plenty of hot and cold drink options and treats for the kids; located on the LowerLobby/Shop Level; walk in only; typically open at 7am; menu here.
• Draper’s Cafe and Ice Cream Bar: Informal spot for lunch featuring favorite recipes of Dorothy Draper and a children’s menu; located on Casino Mezzanine Level; walk in only; Ice Cream Bar open until 8pm; menu here.
• Prime 44 West: Formal steakhouse with a children’s menu; located on Upper Lobby/ First Level; reservations required; menu here.
• Springhouse Smoothies: Offers a wide variety of smoothies, coffee, speciality drinks, energy drinks and bars; located in a small house next to the Springhouse; walk in only; open seasonally usually mornings and afternoons; menu here.
• Tree Tops Cafe: Quick service spot for lunch and snacks with a children’s menu; located at the outdoor pool complex; menu here.
• Slammin’ Sammy’s: Informal spot for lunch, afternoon snacks, and dinner with a children’s menu; great views of the golf courses and more of a “sports bar” vibe; walk in only; located at The Golf Club; menu here.
• Sam Snead’s: Open for lunch and dinner with a children’s menu; beautiful views of the golf course; located at The Golf Club; reservations required for dinner; menu here.

Shopping Options: See the full list of the resort’s retail collection (most are located on the Lower Lobby floor of the main resort building) here. Be sure to take a quick walk to the Art Colony Shops, a collection of independently owned shops, which offer unique and one of a kind housewares, jewelry, and art work, all designed by local artists. The shops are housed in the former historic Alabama Row cottages, next to the Presidents Cottage Museum. Leave time to stop by the Christmas Shop at the Depot, located across the street from the main resort entrance and next to the train station, which offers a variety of holidays themed decorations and gifts.

Transportation: The Greenbrier Resort is located in the town of White Sulphur, just outside of Lewisburg and three hours from Richmond, Virginia and four hours from Washington, DC and Pittsburgh, PA. Information on flying into the Greenbrier Valley Airport and other modes of transportation (Amtrak train station is literally across the street from the main entrance) available here and here. The resort offers complimentary self parking as well as valet parking ($35/night). There is a daily shuttle that loops the resort property, making stops at the North Entrance, Main Entrance, Fairy Garden and Arts Colony Shops, outdoor pool, and Golf Shop (although walking between these stops is a less than 10 minute walk). 

See good maps and directories of the resort property here and here and the daily calendar here.

Complimentary Activities to Enjoy:

1. Enjoy morning coffee and afternoon tea and treats: A century old tradition, morning coffee (6am-9am) and afternoon tea (hot and cold) are offered in the Upper Lobby each day. Sweet treats and a musical concert are also offered during the 4pm afternoon hour. Year Round
2. Go swimming in the indoor pool (open daily from 8am-4pm) and outdoor pool (open seasonally from 9am-8pm): The 30 meter indoor pool, which dates back to 1912 and has been meticulously restored and preserved, is a beautiful, sun filled space, with a three foot shallow end, and nine foot deep end. There are well appointed locker rooms and a full gym set up inside the pool facility. The outdoor, zero entry, infinity ledge pool that overlooks the golf course, is located to the left of the Golf Shop. There is plenty of tiered shaded seating available, locker rooms and a retail shop, a couple of water features kids will enjoy, and the Tree Tops Cafe.
3. Watch nightly movies in the Greenbrier Theater: The 300 seat theater typically offers a kid friendly and then family friendly film each night.
4. Let off some energy while exploring the playground, located on the North Lawn. Families can also enjoy lawn games like shuffleboard, located near the Tennis Club and Fitness Center.
5. Peer down into the Springhouse well: The resort was built on the site of the White Sulphur Hot Springs, which attracted visitors looking to cure their ailments as far back as the late 1700s. The Springhouse (icon of the resort), built in the 1830s as the resort grew in popularity as people who come to drink from it each morning, “reflects the Greek and Roman ancestry of ‘taking the waters’ to restore health.” Sulphur water from this springhouse is still pumped to the Spa, which offers dozens of treatments.

6. Observe a glass blowing demonstration: Located in the Lamp Light Glass Art Hot Shop Building to the left of the Arts Colony Shops, skilled artists offer daily demonstrations of creating glass blown vases, bowls, and ornaments and show off their impressive works of art (available for purchase).
7. Tour the Presidents’ Cottage Museum: Built in 1835 as a summer cottage for a wealthy sugar plantation owner who summered at the resort, it was later used as a summer retreat for eight five presidents: Martin Van Buren, Millard Fillmore, Franklin Pierce, James Buchanan, and John Tyler. The cottage opened as a museum in 1932 and today, guests are welcome to take self gilded tours of both floors of the museum, which include original furnishings, a collection of photographs and notes of distinguished guests over the decades, a diorama of the White Sulphur Hot Springs in 1859, an old stage coach, and hand painted murals on the walls. Read more about the museum here and here. Next to the Arts Colony Shops
8. Have a family portrait taken before dinner: Offered by the professional photographers at Greenbrier Photography, portraits are taken each evening in the Trellis Lobby and available for purchase and downloads on the company’s website the following day.  
9. Learn all about the history of the resort on a History Walk: Alternating days, an interior or exterior tour from a veteran staff member includes stops at many popular spots on the resort property and lots of fun trivia and anecdotes about the history of the resort and its guests. Take note of table games spread throughout the first floor to come back and play a game. Tours meet at the Upper Lobby. We’ll have a separate feature of the History Walk soon on the blog.
10. Take a hike on one (or several) of the 10 designated trails throughout the resort property: We suggest the “green circle” or “blue square” rated trails for novices and people with young children: the Valley View Trail  is under three miles and is closest to the main resort buildings.

Activities that Require an Additional Fee:

1. Golf: Arguably the most popular activity at the Greenbrier Resort, there are three 18 hole courses and one shorter, par 3 walking course. The Old White Course first opened in 1914 and was a stop on the PGA Tour for almost a decade in the 2010s. The Greenbrier Course opened in 1924 and was redesigned by famed golfer Jack Nicklaus  in the 1970s. The Meadows Course opened in 1962 and was redesigned in 2017 after a flood destroyed the original course. The Ashford Short Course is a walking par 3 course for more novice golfers. Learn more about golf rates and fees here.
2. Spa: The 40,000 square foot spa has over 60 rooms that offer treatments ranging from hair treatments, massages, hydrotherapy and a variety of baths, skin scrubs and tanning, facials, and even specialized treatments for children- See the full list here.  The spa also has a hair salon, MedSpa, and lots of meditation, healing, and exercise classes.
3. Bunker Tours: One of the most famous aspects of the resort, the 1950s decommissioned bunker was built, 720 feet into the hillside under the West Virginia Wing of the resort, in secret as a place to hide and protect US government officials, including the US Senate and House of Representatives. The bunker was made public in a 1992 Washington Post story, and was open for tours through the resort in 1995. Tours (no cameras, phones, or recordings of any kind are allowed!) include an overview film and touring the massive West Tunnel Entrance and 25 ton doors, replica Senate and House chambers, dormitories, Power Plant, cafeteria and kitchen, and medical facilities. Reservations are required and outs do sell out- plan on 90 minutes for a full tour and meet in the Trellis Lobby. No photos are allowed of the bunker tour.
4. Sports clinics and lessons: In addition to golf, the resort also offers tennis, pickleball, and croquet lessons, clinics and courts for open play.  The Greenbrier facilities include a Croquet Lawn (next to the Spring Row Cottages), eight indoor pickleball courts and five indoor courts at the Fitness Center, five outdoor tennis courts (near the Fitness Center) and a 2,500 seat professional tennis stadium. Reservations are required for most events. 
5. Greenbrier Outfitters: Offering a wide variety of outdoor adventures, there is a daily and weekly schedule of excursions, including an Aerial Adventure Course (12 challenges all 40-50 feet up in the trees), a Gun Club (skeet shooting, trap shooting, and sporting clay shooting), off roading in Jeeps (off property), fishing excursions (off property), falconry encounters, mountain biking, GeoCatching, a scavenger hunt, and guided hikes. Make reservations ahead of time online, or visit the shop next to the outdoor pool.
6. Take a guided tour of the resort property via horseback riding, a carriage ride, or sleigh ride (seasonal): Tours usually meet near the North Entrance of the resort.
7. Bowling: An eight lane bowling alley is located in the Lower Lobby/Shop Level and does offer kiddie bumpers. Reserve lanes here. The adjacent Arcade offers several games and is typically open from 9am-10pm.
8. Create your own keepsake at a Fairy and Gnome Workshop: The adorable Doll House (located in front of the Arts Colony) offers activities such as 
9. Try and solve the puzzles to escape at two different themed Escape Rooms: Paying homage to the resort’s famous bunker, the Debunked Escape Room, and the Mummy’s Curse Escape Room challenge participants to solve the riddles and puzzles in under an hour. Reserve a time here.  Eisenhower Corridor of the Main Resort